There is no information on how to remove Ecobee smart thermostats from your home since the company does not provide directions on how to do so. Ecobee is quite excellent at offering instructions on how to install and manage your smart thermostat.

The directions they provided on how to remove the backplate were the next best thing we could find.

The Ecobee thermostat is joined to the backplate, which is the component that is bolted into the wall and holds the Ecobee in place.

What is the procedure for removing the backplate from my Ecobee?

Placing your thumb and index finger on the backplate will allow you to gently detach your thermostat from the backplate, which is the first step in removing the Ecobee backplate. After that, exert some force against the Ecobee3 Lite.

To remove the backplate from the wall, remove the screws that are attached to it.

For what it’s worth, we think this information is severely lacking all by itself. To remove the backplate, the wires will need to be removed and handled separately.

If the power has not been cut off to these wires, they will be very hot to the touch. Do not tamper with energized wires if the power has not been turned off first.

In addition, if you wish to entirely remove your Ecobee thermostat from your home, the information provided here is insufficient. If the power is not turned off, there is a risk that the HVAC equipment may be damaged or that you will electrocute yourself.

Before you start working on this project, make sure the power is turned off. We will talk about this again. A secure environment is essential.

How to Take Off the Ecobee Thermostat That Is Attached to the Wall?

Turn off the power to your heating and cooling systems.

Find the circuit breaker for your HVAC system, then turn the breaker for the HVAC off. It will turn off the electricity to your HVAC system. In certain cases, turning off the breaker is unnecessary since there is a power switch positioned next to the furnace that may be used instead.

Make sure the power is turned off.

The screen of the eco-bee should be completely dark and black. You will not be able to connect to it using the app or make any adjustments to the temperature there.

If the screen on the Ecobee is still showing information, try adjusting the temperature to see whether the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems were only partly switched off. Turn on either the heat or the air conditioning, depending on the time of year.

To do this, set the thermostat to a temperature that is either lower or higher than what it is now reporting on the display. It shouldn’t take too long until you hear a relay switch, and then shortly after that, the fan should begin to rotate.

Nothing happening is a positive indication, so keep your fingers crossed! At this point, all that remains is for you to find out how to deactivate the Ecobee device. There is a chance that there is an additional breaker that has to be turned.

Remove the Ecobee Thermostat completely from its mounting in the wall.

You are now in a position where you can follow the guidelines that Ecobee provided, which we previously discussed. Maintain contact between the trim plate and the wall if it is already attached. When the thermostat has been removed, the backplate and trim plate may then be taken off.

When the Ecobee 4 or a subsequent model is removed, it will produce a clicking sound. The Ecobee 3 may be removed smoothly and quietly without creating any clicking sounds.

The clicking sound was included as a positive feedback mechanism so that you could determine whether or not the component had been correctly placed.

Disconnect any wires that are attached to the terminals on the backplate.

Take a photo of the wiring configuration or make a mental note of which wires connect to which terminal. Be very careful to take note of whether or not you have a common wire.

There is going to be a wire that goes to the terminal that is labeled “C.” If you DO NOT have a Common wire, be sure to do step 7 before moving on.

The switch will be moved to the off position for each terminal that requires the installation of a wire. When you are pulling the wire away from that terminal, give this switch a light push and keep it down while you do so.

The switch will return to its normal position after the wire has been removed, which is at the same level as the other switches.

Remove the two screws that are securing the backplate and trim plate to their respective positions (if installed).

It is time to either take off or put on the trim plate that was previously there. If you want to reinstall your Ecobee Thermostat, you may do so by following these procedures in the opposite order.

Take note that the trim plate cannot be removed without first severing the connection between the backplate and the wires.

Detach the PEK from the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system if you do not have a common wire.

PEK stands for Power Extender Kit. Your home’s HVAC system, which is typically installed in either the attic or the basement, is linked to the PEK. It should not be confused with the condenser that is located outdoors.

Fill up any Cracks or Holes in the wall.

Now is the time to patch up the two holes left by the Eco Bee thermostat if your replacement thermostat is not going to cover them when it is installed.

Place the replacement thermostat in its location (This is IMPORTANT).

It is not safe to turn on the electricity when the cables are unsecured. Turning off the electricity is the safest option until you can replace the thermostat with another device.

Be very careful if you decide to replace your Eco Bee with a different model of the same brand. Backwards compatibility is only available between the Eco Bee Smart Thermostat and the Eco Bee 4 backplate.

https://youtu.be/DMPaYjypoII?si=IqYNKXRPsd6nuuHd

It is not available on any of the other Eco Bee models (Eco Bee 3 Lite or Eco Bee 3). These previous versions each had their own unique backplates and wiring configurations.

Use Extra Caution, and don’t attempt to Forcibly Fit Anything That Isn’t Designed to Do so. You may locate a help page on Eco Bee’s website that is specifically devoted to this subject by clicking here.

How to Take Off the Eco-Bee Sensors That Are Attached to the Wall?

If you are going to take apart the Eco Bee Thermostat, you may be interested in learning how to take apart the sensors as well. The Eco-Bee sensor wall mounts may be removed from your wall by following these instructions, which will walk you through the process.

If all that is required of you is to switch out the battery, then you just need to do the first step in the process that explains how to remove the Eco Bee sensor from the wall.

Detach the Room Sensor from its Mounting on the wall.

The battery cover is the Wall Mount itself. To remove the sensor, first locate the recessed corner on the back of the sensor using your finger. It will allow you to remove the sensor.

You may pull the sensor off the cover from the recessed corner using either your finger or a tool. It should be done very carefully. In most situations, we can utilize my finger.

https://www.smart-techie.com/interesting-things-about-ecobee-firmware-upgrades/

When we take the Room Sensor away from the wall, we make an effort to avoid accidentally damaging the wall by using our fingers to keep the battery cover or wall mount in place against the wall.

Using the Appropriate Method, Detach the Wall Mount from the Wall.

If it is screwed in, you will need to remove the screw using a screwdriver. If mounted using adhesive tape, heat the tape with hot air to make it stickier. Pull carefully, starting from one side, until the object is gone.

Heal any Damage to the Wall (if any exists).

Fix any holes that the screws may have made. You may use Goo Gone to eliminate any sticky residue that is still present after cleaning.

Take off the smart sensor that is attached to the wall mount.

Just snapping the Smart Sensor onto the wall mount is required to successfully install it. It is possible to get rid of it by applying the approach in reverse.

Pull the Smart Sensor towards you from the top, rear side of the sensor while holding the wall mount in place against the wall with one hand. Do this while using your other hand to keep the wall mounted against the wall.

There is a cutout on the back of the Smart Sensor that corresponds to a recess on the wall mount, so that it may be attached to the wall. If you pull from this location, the sensor will be ripped off the wall mount along with the wall mount, inflicting more damage than is necessary.

With the Appropriate Method, remove the Wall Mount from the wall.

If it is screwed in, you will need to remove the screw using a screwdriver.

If mounted using adhesive tape, heat the tape with hot air to make it stickier. Pull carefully, starting from one side, until the object is gone.

Make Repairs to the Wall Damage (if any exist).

Fix any holes that the screws may have made. You may use Goo Gone to eliminate any sticky residue that is still present after cleaning.

Project designers who want to use an UPS, or uninterruptible power supply, that requires 208V single-phase power should be familiar with the characteristics of 208V electricity and how they interact with various UPS types.

Because it varies depending on the kind of UPS, because it is something that you may not run across on every project, and because it has the potential to be a pricey oversight if it is disregarded, this is one of the topics that generates the most inquiries.

As was said before, this circumstance does not always present a problem. Even though SEPS has designed the standard component numbers to eliminate any possible problems, there are still queries that need to be answered.

The Structure of the Problem

Simply expressed, there is the possibility of a mismatch occurring with certain combinations of UPS model, bypass switch type, and input voltage depending on the specifics of the setup. All of this is due to the characteristics of 208V electricity and the way that transformers have an effect on it.

Power at 120/208 Volts, Single Phase

208-volt three-phase electricity is converted into 120/208-volt single-phase power.

When seen on an oscilloscope, the three voltage waveforms that are present on the three conductors that are considered to be “hot” all peak at different times; more specifically, each one is 120 degrees behind the one that came before it.

When working with a single-phase voltage of 120/208 volts, you may utilize any two of those same three hot conductors, but the peaks of the two waveforms must be offset by 120 degrees from one another.

Due to the fact that the peaks of the two waveforms occur at separate times, the total power that you obtain from them is less than the sum of their numerical values.

The voltage measured by one waveform is at its highest point when it is 120V, whereas the voltage measured by the second waveform is just 88V when it is only halfway through its cycle

https://youtu.be/r3hSaiIt8-Y?si=izQPkLkS6Bf84Urt

. The total combined voltage is 208V. If the two waveforms were coincidental, meaning that their maxima occurred at the same moment, then you would, as you would anticipate, be able to achieve 240V by adding the two 120V peaks together.

Make-Before-Break Switches Are Used as A Maintenance Bypass.

In the case that the UPS has to be serviced or replaced, this device will open up a way for the protected equipment to be powered by the utility power in the event that this channel is needed.

It totally disconnects the UPS from the power supply, which eliminates the risk of the service personnel receiving an electric shock while they are working inside the UPS.

This switch is required by Motorola for all hardwired uninterruptible power supply (UPS) systems because it enables the UPS cabinet to be entirely removed and changed without requiring the protected equipment to be powered down.

The Make-Before-Break (MBB) switch overlaps the power on the “UPS” line with the utility power on the “Bypass” line whenever the switch handle is moved.

This brief overlap does not create a problem since it lasts for such a short period of time; yet, it is essential because it allows the switch-to-switch sources without disrupting the operation of the equipment that is being safeguarded.

Transformer for removing Signals

This device, which may be an integral part of the UPS or an entirely distinct unit, transforms the electricity from the utility company into power that has been cleaned and conditioned.

In situations in which the power from the utility company is described as “dirty” or “harsh,” you should make use of an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) that has isolation in order to provide your equipment the highest level of protection possible.

According to Motorola’s R56 Standards, uninterruptible power supply (UPS) systems that contain isolation are regarded as independently derived power sources.

(The page titled “Isolation Explained” in this section provides a more in-depth description of isolation transformers; please refer to it for further information.)

According to Kirchhoff’s Law, the amount of power that goes into a circuit must be equal to the amount of power that comes out of it. This includes transformers, in which the power on the primary side (which is the input side) must match the power on the secondary side (which is the output side).

Transformers are only able to manipulate the power that is already there; they cannot “create” new power. If you put 120 volts in, you will get 120 volts out; if you put 208 volts in, you will get 208 volts out; if you put 240 volts in, you will get 240 volts out; and so on.

Putting Everything into Perspective

When electricity with a single-phase voltage of 120/208 volts is fed into an isolation transformer, the two distinct hot conductors of 120 volts are merged into a single waveform of 208 volts.

We need to divide the 208V back into two 120V conductors so that we can power the majority of the Motorola equipment, but this cannot be done since the voltage is too high.

As was said before, the amount of power that is put in must be equal to the amount of power that is taken out without producing anything brand new. Only 208 volts of total voltage are available when the single 208-volt waveform that is coming out of the transformer is divided into two conductors.

Additionally, the peaks of both conductors occur simultaneously. It is impossible for any piece of machinery to make use of the remaining 88 volts of power once one 120-volt wire has been generated.

Because 240V can be divided equally between two 120V conductors, this problem may be solved by setting the output of the UPS to 240V, which is the obvious approach. If there wasn’t a maintenance bypass option for the Make-Before-Break feature, this would be successful.

The electricity from the utility (120/208V) and the power from the output of the UPS (120/240V) are superimposed on one another whenever that switch is activated.

https://www.smart-techie.com/how-to-transform-3-phase-220v-electricity-into-a-single-phase/

A magnetic “crash” will occur as a direct consequence of the disparity in phase angles between the two voltages, which will cause the circuit breaker that supplies power to the UPS to trip.

Solutions

Since 120/208V input is not possible in isolated UPS systems and the UPS output must be 120/240V to prevent the “88V leg,” the input voltage must be 120/240V. If this is already present at the location, then there is really no need to worry about anything in this regard.

On the other hand, if the voltage at the site that feeds the UPS is 120/208V, you will have to modify it to 120/240V. Both the FERRUPS and the 9170+ UPS systems are capable of achieving this goal in their own unique ways.

FERRUPS

Because the FERRUPS incorporates a ferro resonant transformer as the primary component of its construction, every single model comes included with an internal isolation system.

This indicates that any and all FERRUPS models that might potentially be powered by a 120/208V circuit would be impacted by this issue.

When searching for a FERRUPS model number, it is important to keep in mind that models 3,000W and above may be set up as either 208V or 240V source systems, and you will need to choose the one that is most suited for your needs.

The main difference between the two lies in the fact that the 208V source systems use an external transformer, which brings the input voltage up to 120/240V.

You have the option of using the Break-Before-Make (BBM) maintenance bypass switch rather of the step-up transformer. When the switch is activated, the BBM switch does not overlap the output feeds coming from the utility and the UPS, which results in a power interruption.

Because the electricity will be cut off and any equipment that is still running will be destroyed, it is imperative that any equipment that is protected be turned off first.

Because Motorola maintains the position that the protected equipment should never be turned off, not even for maintenance on the UPS, the BBM is not available in any regular model configurations.

If the external transformer is not a solution that can be implemented, SEPS can provide you with an estimate for a customized configuration.

 9170+

For all versions that have a “ISO” appended to its name, the 9170+ comes standard with an external isolation transformer. The output of this external transformer is set to 120/240V, and it may accept electricity at either 120/208V or 120/240V via its various input taps.

Because this transformer supplies the isolation and outputs 120/240V to the bypass switch, none of the two difficulties discussed before is relevant.

Power may be provided to the 9170+ at either 120/208V or 120/240V, depending on whether or not it is fitted with an isolation transformer. All of the problems that were discussed before are resolved when the transformer is not there.

If the location where the UPS will be installed has electricity that is 1220/240V, then you have the option of going with an internal isolation transformer rather than going with an external isolation transformer (for more information, see the component number listings for the Power ware 9170+).

Using this feature makes the 9170+ extremely similar to the FERRUPS, including the 88V leg and phase angle mismatch, therefore it is only accessible with a 240V supply.

SEPS suggests that you do not choose for the internal transformer in order to err on the side of caution if there is uncertainty about the site voltage.

The idea of installing a camera in your bathroom may seem strange at first, but it isn’t. It may be necessary for your protection to have a phone with a concealed camera in the bathroom.

To make matters more difficult, cameras are often bulky and not easily concealed. So, if you want to know how to sneakily record video in the restroom with your smartphone, this post is for you.

Where Is the Best Place To Hide A Camera Phone In A Bathroom?

To begin, you’ll need a suitable and adaptable hiding area in the bathroom to conceal your camera phone. The phone has to be positioned such that the camera has a wide field of view, allowing it to capture the whole washroom. The ceiling, a makeup bag, or the space behind the picture are some of the most common places to hide.

Most high-end smartphones nowadays also have a high-quality camera that can shoot smooth movies even in dim conditions. Make sure the battery is fully charged before hiding your phone in the restroom. When individuals aren’t looking for anything, they tend to miss obvious details.

This Hidden Spy Security Camera is perfect for the bathroom if you require a camera.

To watch and secure your bathroom from afar, this post will show you how to effectively conceal a camera phone. We’ll also go through the optimal camera placement so that your footage isn’t cut off.

Justifications for stowing your phone’s camera away in the stall

It’s important to lay forth the rationale behind our actions first. You may be surprised to learn that the restroom is a common place for individuals to conceal a camera. Several causes include:

When untrustworthy visitors are expected. If you want to prevent them from stealing from you or prying into your belongings. Monitoring their restroom breaks may be your best bet.

To keep an eye on a new nanny or babysitter you don’t trust. You can ensure they are not stealing your stuff while you’re gone and that your youngster is in good hands.

 

To spy on the dishonest employees who often pilfer toiletries.

A concealed bathroom camera may help you respond in time if you have a window in your bathroom since thieves can enter via it.

If you have smaller children and are concerned about their safety in the bath alone due to concerns about drowning or sliding on tiles, consider the following.

How to Hide a Cell Phone in a Bathroom

Make sure you have a good hiding spot before you bring your camera phone inside the bathroom.

Pay close attention to the following details before you install and conceal your camera phone in the toilet:

• Make sure the camera on your phone can capture a large area.
• You’ll want to invest in a high-quality camera.
• Invest in a camera with a high level of water resistance if at all feasible.
• After you have concealed your camera, make sure it works.
• Finally, make sure the phone is completely charged.
• Places to Conceal a Hidden Camera in a Restroom

There are a variety of motives for conducting surveillance. However, it’s important to remember that we’re not in the business of creeping people out before we even begin spying on them.

https://youtu.be/X3oI_jI8oes?si=oLTrdhbpqOhvBsuB

You’d better have a compelling motive to go through with it. We’ll show you some of the most effective locations to conceal your mobile device. Some are more noticeable and others that are less so. Let’s get going then!

1. Ventilation System for Indoor Heat

Put your phone in the air vent to warm it. A nice spot to conceal a camera phone in a bathroom with heating vents is in one of the vents. It isn’t always the simplest solution, but it’s often the most promising. Here’s a quick and easy way to get things done:

 

• To begin, take the vent down by unscrewing it.
• Remove the dust and debris from the vent using a damp towel or sponge.
• Use cardboard or something similar to fill the void.
• Construct a camera stand out of cardboard or comparable material.
• Place the camera 5 cm in front of the edge of the phone for the best photo.
• Tape a phone to the cardboard and use it as a mount.
• Get your camera going and linked up to your streaming provider of choice.
• Try it out and adjust everything that isn’t just perfect (the angle, the distance, the resolution, the quality, etc.) with your first shot.

2. Conceal the Camera Inside the Cupboard

This is the simplest to implement of the first three options given. You’ll need a fully stocked cabinet to just tuck your phone inside amongst everything else within. You may either wait for the person to open it and catch them in the act, or you can leave it open and claim you forgot to shut it.

3. Conceal the camera in the nook of the bathroom

It may seem too apparent, but the fact is that most people don’t go looking for cameras in the restroom, so they probably won’t see it even if it’s there. It will be considerably more difficult for them to detect if you strategically arrange it.

Here are some pointers that could be useful:

• Mount the camera on the wall opposite the entrance; this will make it more difficult to detect motion.
• If you want to keep people from staring around the room while they’re in the shower, don’t install it over the shower or tub.
• Don’t place it near a glass panel.
• If you want your phone to blend into the backdrop, choose a case that is colour or pattern.

4. Conceal It Inside an Item of Decoration or a Planter

The increasing popularity of indoor plants has made the bathroom a prime location for covert surveillance equipment. It’s a fantastic area to hide a camera since nobody will look there.

If you want to avoid having to bother about watering your phone, a fake plant is the way to go. If you want to disguise the camera even more effectively, use a bushy plant.

5. Utilize a Makeup Case If You Have one

Put Your Cell Phone and Makeup in a Handbag. It is one of the more subtle places you can conceal a camera phone. It may be used as a stealthy hiding spot in the same way that a toothpaste box can.

To avoid drawing attention to your phone in the restroom, fill a cosmetics bag with goods and set it up where you can see it from a convenient vantage point. If you put it up high, you won’t be able to see it as easily, but you’ll have a better overall perspective of the space.

6. Hidden from Sight, as in a Picture or a Work of Art

People often decorate their bathrooms with images and artwork, which may also serve as excellent covers for hidden cameras. To achieve this, you may hide your phone behind an image by cutting a small hole in the background.

You may include your mobile device in the scene as well. This will provide you with a fantastic vantage point of the restroom, allowing you to keep tabs on what goes on there while you aren’t around.

https://www.smart-techie.com/10-best-smart-bathroom-technology/

7. Hanger

Clothes-hook-mounted covert camera. Putting a camera on a coat hanger may seem odd, but it’s not impossible. You may hang your camera safely on the hook so that it won’t fall over.

It’s not without its dangers, but it has potential. It’s available on Amazon, and I’ll show you how to utilize it with your smartphone camera in this post.

Pre-installed clothing cameras are preferable for these purposes since they are sturdier when hung from the top of the clothes hook and the clothes themselves do not appear in the camera’s field of view.

Use the hook to dry your garments.

See whether anything is blocking the camera’s view, and if so, attempt to reposition it.

See how long of a recording you can get out of the battery.

8.A camera that Plugs into an Outlet

Place Camera Inside Wall Outlet. This approach requires more effort to implement, but if successful, it may provide excellent results. For this purpose, there are two main kinds of cameras:

Cameras disguised as wall outlets are a great alternative for a hidden camera since most people won’t suspect anything out of the ordinary if you hang one on the wall.

Pinhole cameras may be inserted into the side space of a broken socket.

Conclusion

Most people who decide to install a camera in their lavatory do so for safety concerns, but there are other reasons to do so as well. It’s also easy to conceal these devices in a lavatory.

This post detailed some excellent hiding spots that you may use as inspiration for your own. It may seem that certain locations would be easy to see a camera, but in reality, most individuals don’t expect to be photographed.

It’s not hard to conceal a camera, and if you follow the advice in this article, you’ll have it down to a science.